Licensed & Insured
Restore. Rebuild. Renew.
A gutter is not decoration and it is not really about the gutter. It is the thing that stops your roof edge, your fascia, your siding and your foundation from taking the whole roof’s worth of water at once.
Why they matter
A modest roof sheds an enormous volume of water in a single eastern Carolina thunderstorm. Every gallon of it arrives at the same place: a strip of edge a few inches wide. Gutters exist to catch that concentrated flow and move it somewhere deliberate. When they cannot, the water does not politely go away — it goes over the front lip, straight down the wall, and into the ground at the base of your foundation.
That is why gutters are the least glamorous and best-value part of the exterior. The gutter itself is inexpensive. The things it protects are not: fascia board, soffit, the first two feet of roof, siding, window trim, and the soil that is supposed to be holding your foundation still.
Seamless aluminium. Run to length on site, so a wall gets one continuous gutter instead of sectional lengths joined every ten feet. Every joint is a future leak; the fewer of them, the better.
Correct profile and size. Five-inch K-style handles most single-storey roofs. Six-inch is the right answer for large roof areas, steep pitches that accelerate the water, and valleys that dump into one spot — and it takes a larger downspout to match, or the extra capacity has nowhere to go.
Downspouts that are sized and placed. The number and position of the outlets is what actually determines whether a gutter keeps up in a downpour. Getting the water away from the wall at the bottom matters just as much as catching it at the top.
Hangers and pitch. Hidden hangers screwed into solid fascia at proper spacing, and enough fall towards the outlet to keep the gutter draining rather than standing.
Fascia repair. A gutter is only as good as the board it is fastened to. If the fascia has gone soft — often because the old gutter was overflowing behind it — it gets repaired first. Hanging new gutters on rotten fascia is money thrown away twice.
Guards, where they make sense. Under trees they genuinely reduce cleaning. They are not maintenance-free, and we will not tell you they are.
Overflowing gutters are one of the most common causes of edge rot on a roof, because the water backs up under the first course of shingles instead of running off the drip edge. If you are getting a roof replaced, that is the moment to deal with the gutters — the edge details are open, the drip edge is being replaced anyway, and doing it in the same visit costs less than doing it twice.
The warning signs
Several of these are easiest to spot during heavy rain, which is exactly when nobody goes outside to look.
How it runs
01
We look at the gutters, the fascia behind them, and the roof edge above them. All three are one system.
02
Profile, size, hanger spacing, outlet positions, and any fascia repair — priced before anything is ordered.
03
Soft board is repaired before new gutter goes on it. Run to length on site so a wall gets one continuous piece.
04
Tested rather than eyeballed, and walked with you. A gutter that has not been tested has not been finished.
Straight answers
Nothing here is hidden behind a dropdown. If a question you have isn't answered, call and ask.
Five-inch K-style handles most single-storey roofs comfortably. Six-inch is worth it when you have a large roof area draining to one run, a steep pitch that accelerates the water, or a valley that dumps into a single spot. The catch is that six-inch gutter with a standard downspout is only half an upgrade — the outlet has to grow with the trough or the capacity has nowhere to go. We size both together.
Under trees, yes — they meaningfully reduce how often somebody has to get up a ladder. What they are not is maintenance-free, whatever the advertising says: fine grit, shingle granules and pine needles still accumulate on top of a screen, and a clogged guard sheds water past the gutter entirely. We will fit them where they earn their keep and tell you plainly when they will not.
If it is sound, yes, and often it is. If it is soft, no — hangers need something solid to hold. It is worth understanding the order of events here: the fascia usually went soft because the old gutter was overflowing behind it, so replacing the gutter without repairing the board leaves the cause fixed and the damage in place.
We clear them as part of the work we do and we will tell you honestly what shape yours are in during an inspection. Standalone seasonal gutter cleaning is not what this company is set up for, and pretending otherwise would waste your time.
If they need doing, that is by a distance the cheapest moment. The roof edge is already open, the drip edge is being replaced anyway, and the two systems meet at exactly the place where water gets under a roof. Doing them in separate visits means paying twice to work on the same eighteen inches.
Away from the house — far enough that it is not soaking the soil against your foundation. Extensions, a buried line to daylight, or a splash block at minimum. Catching the water perfectly at the roof and releasing it at the base of the wall solves nothing; it just moves the problem down twenty feet.
The rest of the exterior
Tell us where the house is and what you're seeing. We'll look at the gutters, the fascia and the roof edge together.
Rather talk it through? (252) 544-6845
Four details and we'll call you back to set a time.
